Best Buy Soundbar

TL;DR

The “right” soundbar buy usually comes down to your TV’s connection (ARC vs eARC) and what kind of surround you actually want in your room (true up-firing Atmos vs virtual processing). If you have eARC, prioritize a bar that supports Dolby Atmos and has the inputs you need; if you only have ARC (or no ARC), focus on clear dialogue and simple setup over big channel-count claims.

Top Recommended Soundbars

Top Pick: Best Overall Soundbars

JBL Bar 500: 5.1-Channel soundbar with MultiBeam™ and Dolby

Best for: Most people buying a soundbar for a typical living room (think 10×12 to 15×20) who want noticeably bigger sound, strong bass, and an easy setup without building a full speaker system.

The Good

• Big, room-filling presentation that’s a clear step up from built-in TV speakers for movies, sports, and general streaming.
• Bass performance is a standout for the money, which helps action scenes feel more physical without you cranking the volume.
• Good overall value in this price band, especially if you can catch it on sale or as an open-box return.
• App control gives you useful day-to-day tuning options (helpful when late-night viewing needs less bass or a more dialogue-forward balance).

The Bad

• If your main goal is convincing “height” effects, this isn’t the safest bet versus a bar with dedicated up-firing Atmos drivers.
• Like most soundbars, placement and room acoustics matter a lot — an awkward TV stand or corner loading can make bass feel boomy.

“The ease of setup for this soundbar was amazing. Getting it put together and updating the firmware was a breeze.” — verified buyer, 5 stars

Our Take: For most Best Buy-style soundbar shoppers who want a straightforward, high-impact upgrade (especially with a sub in the box), the Bar 500 is the best balance of cost, simplicity, and “wow, that’s better” sound.

Sony S100F 2.0ch Soundbar with Bass Reflex Speaker

Best for: A bedroom, office, dorm, or small apartment setup where you just want clearer TV audio than the built-in speakers and you don’t want to deal with a subwoofer — especially if you’re using HDMI ARC or optical.

The Good

• Very compact and easy to fit under smaller TVs, making it a practical pick for tight media consoles.
• A straightforward “better than TV speakers” upgrade for dialogue-heavy content like news, sitcoms, and sports.
• Budget pricing makes it a low-risk buy for a secondary TV.
• Owner impressions at scale are plentiful (it’s a widely bought model), which can be reassuring when shopping in the entry tier.

The Bad

• As a 2.0-channel bar, surround effects are limited — don’t expect immersive wraparound sound in a larger room.
• Low-end impact is naturally modest compared with bars that include a dedicated wireless subwoofer.
• If you’re chasing Dolby Atmos or multiple HDMI device switching, this class of bar is the wrong tool.

Our Take: If your goal is a simple, inexpensive dialogue upgrade for a small space (and you’re okay with basic stereo), the S100F is a sensible, no-drama choice.

LG SC9S 3.1.3-Channel Soundbar

Best for: An Atmos-curious living room setup (ideally with an 8–10 ft flat ceiling) where you want a more cinematic presentation and you’re pairing with a modern TV that supports ARC/eARC.

The Good

• Atmos-capable channel layout on paper, aimed at a more “dome-like” presentation than basic 2.0/2.1 bars.
• HDMI is a frequent positive mention in buyer reviews, which matters because ARC/eARC behavior can make or break day-to-day reliability.
• Good fit for people already in the LG TV ecosystem and shopping this midrange price tier.
• 3.1.3-style designs can be a sweet spot for buyers who want more than stereo but don’t want separate rear speakers.

The Bad

• Atmos performance in any soundbar setup is room-dependent — vaulted ceilings, very high ceilings, or off-axis seating reduce the “height” effect.
• With only modest buyer-review volume compared with mass-market entry models, it’s harder to generalize long-term reliability from user reports alone.

Our Take: If you’re trying to step up into an Atmos-capable bar for a normal-height, flat-ceiling room — and your TV connectivity is modern enough to support it — the SC9S is worth a look, but confirm your ARC/eARC plan before you buy.

FAQ

Do I need eARC for a soundbar?

Not always, but it depends on what you watch and how you connect devices. HDMI ARC is often fine for basic TV audio and many streaming formats, while eARC has more bandwidth and broader format support — which can matter if you want higher-bitrate Dolby formats or you’re routing external sources through the TV back to the bar. For the underlying standards and compatibility guidance, see HDMI.org (HDMI ARC/eARC overview).

What’s the difference between ARC and eARC in real use?

ARC (Audio Return Channel) is the older “send sound from TV to soundbar” feature over HDMI; eARC (enhanced ARC) is the newer version designed for higher-bandwidth and more consistent audio support. In real living-room setups, eARC tends to reduce “why won’t this format play?” headaches when you use TV apps and multiple HDMI sources, and it can be less finicky with lip-sync — though your TV, soundbar, and HDMI cable quality all play a role.

Is Dolby Atmos on a soundbar actually worth it?

It can be, but only under the right conditions. Atmos soundbars that use up-firing drivers generally work best with a flat ceiling that isn’t excessively high (many people see the best results around typical 8–10 ft ceilings), and seating that isn’t too far off-axis; “virtual Atmos” relies more on processing and is usually subtler. Dolby’s own consumer guidance is a good reality check: Dolby (Dolby Atmos information).

How do I know if I’m really getting Atmos from Netflix/Disney+/Max?

First, confirm the content tier and title actually support Atmos, then check your TV audio settings for bitstream/passthrough options and whether the HDMI port used is ARC or eARC. If you have only ARC, you may still get Atmos in some streaming cases, but format support varies by TV and app; if your bar has an HDMI input, connecting a streamer directly to the soundbar can sometimes be the simplest way to ensure the bar receives the intended signal.

Should I trust channel counts like 5.1, 7.1, or 11.1.4 on a soundbar?

Treat channel counts as a clue, not a promise. Many soundbars simulate some channels with psychoacoustic processing unless you have physical speakers (especially rear surrounds), so “more channels” on the box doesn’t automatically mean better immersion in your room. When in doubt, look for independent testing that describes real surround/height performance and dialogue clarity, such as lab-style evaluations from RTINGS soundbar reviews.

Do I need a subwoofer, or is a soundbar alone enough?

For casual TV and smaller rooms, a bar alone can be “good enough,” especially at low volumes. For movies, a subwoofer usually delivers the biggest perceived upgrade — but poorly integrated bass can smear dialogue, so start with the sub level low and raise it gradually until voices still sound clean. If you find voices getting thick or muffled, backing off the sub a notch often helps more than changing the overall volume.

What if my TV has no ARC/eARC HDMI port?

You can still use a soundbar, but you’ll typically rely on optical (Toslink) or analog connections, which may limit you to stereo or basic compressed surround depending on the TV and content. If you have multiple devices (Roku/Apple TV, game console, Blu-ray), consider connecting them to the soundbar first (if it has HDMI inputs) and then sending video to the TV, which can bypass some TV audio limitations.

What settings should I change first after installing a soundbar?

Start with the basics: set the TV’s audio output to external speakers, enable HDMI-CEC so volume control works from the TV remote, and set digital audio output to bitstream/passthrough if available. Then fine-tune for your room: reduce bass if dialogue feels cloudy, and only enable “surround” or “3D audio” modes if they improve clarity rather than making voices sound hollow. If you want the fastest path to a correct setup, a CEDIA-certified home theater installer can also help verify wiring and settings when ARC/eARC behavior gets messy.

Bottom Line

If you want one soundbar pick that fits the widest range of buyers, the JBL Bar 500 is our choice because it delivers a big, satisfying upgrade with strong bass and straightforward setup in a typical living room. Match your purchase to your TV’s ARC/eARC capability and your room’s layout, and you’ll avoid the most common “why doesn’t this sound right?” problems after you get it home.

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